A friend of a friend, Ian, got in touch ...
"I've got some Leak kit that could do with servicing. Could this be of interest?"
I like Leak kit.
Yeah.. why not?
He's dropped off a couple of amplifiers (this one, and a Stereo 20), and a pre-amp (a Varislope 2, to match the Stereo 20).
First up , the Leak Stereo 30.
This was Leak's upgrade to the Stereo 30, which was an all germanium transistor affair, this is all Silicon. There's a pair of 2N3055's or equivalent in the output stage, developing around 15 watts per channel into 8 Ohms.
The amplifier is divided into a chassis, which contains the bigger capacitors and mains transformer and output transistors, and 4 plug in PCB's... two pre-amps and two "power amp" boards, although the output transistors are mounted externally.
As the amplifier is a single-rail design, the output stage sits at "half-rail" when idle, the speakers are coupled to the output stage via a 1000uF coupling capacitor. It's imperative they are in tip top condition to prevent damage to the amplifier or speakers. They are both physically and electrically leaking.
Sadly the fibre top broke up, limiting our options a bit for re-stuffing. I scratched by head for a couple of minutes, and then invented a solution!!
... and the Cap-cap (TM) and cap, fitted to the old cap. I hope that's clear !
Get the model from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4860779 . It currently only fits 1" capacitor cans, I may make other sizes as I need.
So, back to our "cardboard tube" capacitor. There seems little point in restuffing it, as it doesn't fit anyway. Back to the 3D printer, and an adaptor is made..
... which snugly holds the new capacitor into the clamp. Neat.
With the capacitor replacement complete, all the pots and switches are cleaned up, and it's time to apply some power and see what happens.
The two red wires to the top transistors are disconnected and multimeters inserted into the circuit to measure the quiescent current.
The bias controls, which set the quiescent current are located on the two power amp PCBs.
Well, the bias is all over the place, and isn't stable. The two pots are cleaned up, and ... hang on a minute...
... that bias pot... why is there solder on it? Someone's obviously attempted to make the contact a bit better by soldering the top spring of the wiper. Nasty. Really nasty.
After replacement of the pots with some nice multi-turn jobs, the bias is set and is nice and steady.
It sounds good, but the balance is miles off, the balance pot needs to be set to the right for it to be central. Also as the balance control is rotated more to the right, the left channel starts coming up again, but horribly distorted.
The balance control is disconnected and measured, and the resistance values horribly non-linear over the movement on one channel. It's a stereo 20K linear pot. Easily available, and duly replaced.
... not so the broken mains switch section of the volume control. After a fruitless search of the internet for a suitable replacement, a few telephone calls are made, and I manage to secure a new-old-stock leak delta control, which will do nicely.
The amp is now done, and performs wonderfully. Should be good for another 20 years :)
Great article. I have a few like this, Stereo 70s, Delta 30 and 70s, and the main problem I have when recapping them is the tracks lifting on the plug in boards.
ReplyDeleteAvoid the solder sucker like the plague!
DeleteHi Doz,
ReplyDeleteI have come across your fantastic blog entry as I have come to have a lovely Leak Stereo 30 Plus just like you.
I have given it a cosmetic refurb, plenty (and I mean PLENTY!) of contact cleaner across all switches and pots and replaced only whichever electrolytic caps were faulty or with high RSE - I've taken the opposite approach to you and left intact as much as possible.
I am enjoying the sound of this little unit a lot, however I have noticed that when using the on/off switch in the volume control, there is a nasty "pop" coming out of the speakers.
Something tells me that this should not happen and that a smoothing of some sort should happen at turn-on.
The only caps which had already been replaced by the previous owner were C2, C3 and C6. C6 is just before the DC fuse, its original value was 2500 uF and was replaced with a 3300 uF unit.
Is there anything wrong here or something that could be "modded" to avoid that nasty "thump" on turn on?
Please let me know.
Many thanks in advance!
JP
That's why modern amplifiers mute whilst the output comes up! Not much you can do about it really, if you wish to keep it original.
DeleteWould there be any "easy" modification that could be done to prevent this thump from happening, even if it means modifying it from original? Please let me know.
DeleteMany thanks!
Add a DPDT relay to the speaker outputs. Common to the amplifier output, NC to a load resistor, NO to the speaker, and delay the relay for a second or so. See my recent PiCow article for a suitable delay circuit. It's just the wrong side of "easy" though...
Delete