Translate

Saturday 12 January 2019

Wrecked Akai M-8 conversion to mono-block amplifiers.

Edward phoned..

"Got this ruined Akai tape recorder. Do you think you can remove the amplfiers and turn it into to a couple of mono-blocks?"

Yeah, why not...

Edward turned up one complete tape deck , and another two amplifiers, which are almost identical, but badged "Roberts"

One of the Roberts amplifiers has apparently got a duff output transformer in it....

This is what an M8 is supposed to look like... a bit of a Japanese Ampex look-a-like.

I didn't take a photo of Edward's, but it looked similar to the above, except it appears to have been dragged across a car park...

I removed the deck ...
Levers are bent, spindles smashed :(











I also remove the amps, and set to work on a re-cap...

The Roberts unit has been severely got at. Someone's had a go at re-inventing the wheel. Parts are missing, it's been totally re-wired. The other has a damaged VU meter. It's decided to leave these.






Once the two other amps are re-capped, and permanently switched to "record" , enabling a line level input to be amplified, and output. It's only a single-ended EL84, so it's not expected to produce trouser-flapping levels of volume.

I've added a couple of warm white LED's behind the grills on the front panel to illuminate our valves a bit..








Being of Japanese extraction, the whole thing was designed to run from 100VAC, so export units had a built-in autotransformer. This is removed from the case.









My friend Julian fabricated some nice enclosures from MDF.













... which I painted the underside, inside and rear panel black.












... and set about adding some veneer ...









 ... and a test fit ....
 Smart!

 ... and adding many layers of finishing oil



 To achieve a shiny finish!














A phono socket and speaker binding posts are added to each unit ...
Finally assembled.













Next the auto transformer is mounted into a small ABS enclosure.



Which feeds the required 100V AC to the amplifiers via 2 IEC leads.










All tested and ready to return home ...


How's it sound?

I'm surprised. It's not loud by any stretch of the imagination, but it has some real bass control, which is unusual given the tiny output transformer. Use some efficient speakers and enjoy!

Wednesday 5 December 2018

Philips Digital Compact Cassette recorder repair DCC 951

I missed out on the whole DCC thing. I was a big fan of minidisc...

Anyway, this found it's way into my possession....


It's a DCC 951, dating from 1994. It doesn't work. It's totally dead.


Off with the lid ...












Poking around with a multimeter proves there's AC on the output of the transformer. Time to examine those "wickman" fuses on the rear PCB...











Which involves removal of the back panel, which is easy enough... a few torx screws, and bending these little tabs out of the way ...











One on each side...



















.. and lifting the panel off. The mounting screws can now be removed from the PCB, and it can be hinged up without disconnecting anything...










Sadly the wickman fuses are all intact ... but the regulators on the heatsink are horribly dry-jointed, and a quick solder up on these, and the mains input socket and switch (which are also looking poor) , solves the problem!











Great front loading mech... really smooth!

A conventional analogue tape can be used (analogue only, sadly), and goes in with the exposed side forward. Sadly I don't posses a DCC casette to see what the digital bit's like.

I clean up the tape path, and change the loading belt (it was OK, but I had a new one to hand!)
DON'T DEMAGNETISE THE HEADS!




Here's a few other shots...




















... now to find a cassette ... anyone?

Sunday 2 December 2018

It's (another) Arduino Christmas.

Here's a super simple persistance-of-vision display.

Drive the neighbours mad with 8 static leds, that when they move their head, or drive past, delivers a festive message!

Ingredients.

1 Arduino board (I used a 3.3V 8MHz mini, but anything will do)
8 LED's (if using a 3.3V board, make sure you have enough voltage to light the LEDs!)
8 current limiting resistors

Connect each LED to pins 0-7 (noting 0 and 1 are RX and TX) via a current limiting resistor, and ground.

Load the code from https://github.com/andydoswell/christmas-POV

and enjoy the festive season!



And here's Stuart W's version!


Friday 30 November 2018

Building Frank C's Hedghog 625 PAL to 405 System A standards converter.

It's time to big up someone else's project.

Enter Frank C's Hedghog converter...

Details of the project an be found here.. http://electronics.frankcuffe.ovh/hedghog

It's a stunning project, and features a few useful functions not found on my other standards converter, the Aurora SCRF405 (which for those of you who don't fancy the DIY approach, can be found here http://www.tech-retro.com/Aurora_Design/Single_Converter.html)

It consists of a digital video converter (The TVP5150) which converts PAL to an 8-bit ITU−R BT.656 format. These one's and zero's are fed to an EP2C5 FPGA development board, which mounts to the top of the PCB. The magic happens in here, and the resultant 405 line system A video output emerges from the resistor ladder DAC. This is then passed to a MC44BS373 modulator IC, which is tunable on all Band I and Band III channels. The tuning of the modulator is also taken care of within the FPGA, and is set with a hex switch. There's a second MC44BS373 which is modulating audio at the required 3.5MHZ spacing below the vision carrier.

The unit produces aspect ratios of both 4:3 and 5:4 (5:4 being in use up to 1950)
There's a Pedestal function which lifts black level 50 mV above blanking level. This was abandoned on transmitters post-war, as it reduced the efficiency of the transmitters. It may help with early sets that suffer from flyback lines.
You can select between normal broad pulses or broad pulses with equalising pulses. Equalising pulses were never in the spec, although it may help interlace on some sets (ironically it upsets interlace on some, and causes the top of the picture on some Bush sets to "hook")
The three-line interpolator has three settings: soft, medium and sharp interpolation apertures.
Switchable 1KHz or 400Hz test tones.
There's also a PM5544'esque test pattern, and stair-steps.

These functions are all available via switches on the front panel.

PCBs were ordered from the most-excellent pcbway.com, and arrived within 7 days.

The FPGA board came from eBay.
The MC44BS373's I had to source from AliExpress, as it's now classed as obsolete, however, at the time of writing this, there appears to be plenty of stock from "grey" suppliers. I dislike doing this, as many times I have been caught out with fake parts! Caveat Emptor. I used the AliExpress supplier YT Electronics components co.,ltd


The phono sockets also came from AliExpress (link) and fit with a minor modification.

Assembly is straight forward, don't let the surface mount put you off. Get a decent quality gel flux. If you've seen my videos, you may have realised I suffer with a benign tremor (nothing to worry about, I've had it since I was 14), and I can mount this stuff with ease. I do have the advantage of a microscope.

A bit of blue-tac helps hold the board in place. First off I fit the semi's.

Then the passives...

Programming the FPGA is straight-forward in windows, using the Quartus II (13.0 sp1) software, and the "USB-blaster" supplied with the FPGA board. I failed to get the software to work under Ubuntu (although it would "see" the programmer hardware, the program option remained unavailable). When correctly programmed, there's a binary counter running on three LEDs on the board.
 Sockets and switches are mounted.

And the FPGA board fitted.

... and it's switched on!











However, some fault finding was required, as although the test patterns and test tones were OK, there was no converted video. With the help of the designer, Frank and the VRAT forum (here), it was apparent something was wrong with my FPGA board. After some fault-finding, a tiny solder bridge was found on the FPGA board, shorting out two of the lines. Once this was removed, the converter worked faultlessly.


Moire pattern is being caused by the camera, the actual picture quality is superb.

I like the additional functions available from the front panel. Picture quality appears to be on a par with the aurora converter.

What I'd really like is a centre-cut out function for dealing with a 16:9 input.... Frank?

Monday 1 October 2018

The best laid plans of mice and man... Fellows A75 laminator continued ...

If you've been following this for a while, you'll know I modified a Fellows A75 laminator to get a more reliable way to make toner transfer PCB's. (You can find the original articles here and here.)

As I had predicted, we were now using the item way outside of it's specification, and that's it's life expectancy was certainly going to be, erm, compromised....

Well, tonight it happened. It stopped getting warm. Now I've got a commercial prototype to get out, and I need it. Let's see what's happened.....


So, the poor thing is once again disassembled. Those two red wires you can see running from the other side of the PCB are connected to the element.... A quick check with the meter, and ... it's open circuit. Damn.

Now, in the last modification I decided to raise the temperature by modifying the controller. So what if there's one of those non-resetable thermal fuse things on the element somewhere....





And there is! Mounted against the lower heating element...

It's duly removed, the two wires soldered together, and insulated with a piece of heatshrink...









Back in business!

Now, we've removed an essential safety device, so I'll re-iterate my previous warning... We're putting paper in here, which is being exposed to higher temperatures for more time than it would be in normal use.... If it should jam, there's a risk it could smoulder and catch fire, and ruin your day... DON'T USE IT UNATTENDED!

... you nkow what , I may just build a combined speed/ temperature controller for it, and have done ...